OGR Cassock

This is a cassock that was made for Arget_tyger, the newest companion of the Order of the Golden Rapier.

Project details:

• Wool, with wool lining, blue so dark, it is almost black.
• 52 buttons for front and side closures.
• Linen OGR applique, machine sewn.

 

Pennsic- Classes for 2010

Class outline for UI Basics for Webministers
AKA: Making things work and look good
Description: Covers site development, interface design, usability and accessibility guidelines as needed for local group webministers.
Outline here:UI Basics

Class outline for Creating Order out of Chaos- Feasts for 20 or 200
AKA: A happy kitchen means happy food.
Description: Lessons from a restaurant chef, how to run a feast of any size. Topics include portion control, kitchen organization, food challenges, and course management.
Outline here:Feast Cooking

Class outline for Sugar Work
Description: This class is a part demonstration, part lecture about sugar work/techniques.
Outline here:Sugar Work

 

Rapier Armor-Fabric Configuration

I often get asked what is the “correct” layers of linen needed to create list legal rapier armor. The long and short of the answer is “it depends”.  As Don Ian would say, “here’s a fire hose of information”.

I order all my linen online from fabrics-store. Here is the configuration that I use for 95% of my armor work:

• The basics: doublets, cotes, simple waffenroks:
  • 5.3  oz outer layer, 7.1  oz natural linen middle layer,  5.3  oz inner layer.  This is a doublet that should be able to stand alone as protective armor, with any weight shirt with the appropriate arm gussets. This is the configuration I use most often. Konrad’s armor.
  • 5.3  oz outer layer, 5.3  oz natural linen middle layer,  5.3  oz inner layer. This doublet needs a shirt of 5.3 oz in order to pass drop test. I use this one for pieced/custom stripped fabric and faux puff and slash. Matt’s stripey armor and puff and slash waffenrok.
  • 5.3 oz outer layer, 7.1 oz natural linen inner layer. This doublet needs a shirt of 5.3 oz in order to pass drop test. I generally do not make armor in this configuration as the shirt that was used to drop test the armor MUST be the one worn with this outer layer. But that does not mean it cannot be done.
• Soldiers coat: 5.3  oz outer layer, 7.1  oz natural linen middle layer,  5.3  oz inner layer.  2 layers of 5.3 oz colored linen. Alethea’s armor.
• Skirts: 5.3 oz linen, single layer.  Sometimes I do a 2 button overlap with 3-4 inch overlap of fabric.  Depends on how the top part of the armor is constructed.  Between the 2 layers of linen, pants/female guard and jacket the squishy bits front and back are protected. Margarite’s armor.
• Shirt: 5.3 oz, cut 4 gussets of same weight linen.
• Split dresses: 5.3  oz outer layer, 7.1  oz natural linen middle layer,  5.3  oz inner layer for the bodice. 2 layers of 5.3 oz linen for the attached skirt. Sleeves are faux puff and slash, with 2 layers of 5.3 oz linen with 4 layers of gusset. This armor needs additional protection at the neck and throat because of how the neckline is cut. Additional partlet is 5.3  oz outer layer, 7.1  oz natural linen middle layer,  5.3  oz inner layer.  3 Inch placard and ties extend down past the crotch area for an additional layer of protection.  My armor.

The middle layer is the work horse.  90% of the stopping power comes from this layer. I use natural linen because is is the raw fiber and un-dyed.  Less processing, means a stronger bond with the fiber and more stop power.  The 7.1 oz is negligible in the over all scheme of things.  The 3 layer + shirt combo is only slightly lighter.  Depends on what you do and what patterns you will be using. Also it is unseen when sandwiched between 2 layers of colored linen. If you are going to be working in white, the natural linen will show through.  In this case I will use a middle layer 8-9 oz white linen.  This keeps the linen looking bright and white. Ian’s armor.

Wash and dry the linen in the hottest temperatures you can.  This will take out the sizing and appropriately shrink the material. Make sure you drop test the armor in the configuration it will be worn (order of fabrics can matter). This is because of dyes and weaves. After the initial shrinking, wash in cold, hang dry.  This will preserve the armor for quite a long time.

Get to know your local kingdom’s armoring rules and your local rapier marshals. If you will be sewing rapier armor on a regular basis, I highly recommend getting trained on how to use a drop tester (and possibly building one of your own). Aside from my mask, this was the first piece of fencing equipment I owned.    You must test AFTER the garment has been constructed. I usually test the fabric first so I know what will need to pass and a second time after the garment has been constructed. An authorized marshal must conduct the final drop test in order for it to be considered passed.

Armor is considered “good” for 2 years from its final drop test, though a marshal has the right to test your armor at anytime you take the field.  If your armor looks like it has seen better days, replace it.  It is better to be safe, than sorry. There are 3 things that will break down your linen armor: sun, salt, and moisture.  As an SCA rapier fighter, you will be guaranteed to subject your armor to all 3 of these things.

Here are a couple of things you can do to help prolong the life of your armor:

• Do not store wet/sweaty linen in your bag.  It is a natural fiber, it can rot.
• Wash cold, hang dry.  Use an iron to remove wrinkles and soften the fibers.
• Have more than one set of armor. Rotate your outfits.

Have I thrown enough info at you?