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Swabian #4- finished

The Swabian for Bhakail’s investiture has been completed.

I had help with the beading of the front and back bodice. Thanks Violet Coleson and Ysmay de Linn. I applied the appliques and beads for the sleeve. There is still the fill beading and join appliques left to do. But it was done for the event.

Full dress:
Completed Dress

Sleeve closeup:
Sleeve Closeup

Photography by Jennifer Guyton

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Posted by on July 3, 2013 in Baronial, Embroidery, German, Heraldic, Regalia

 

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Elevation cap- heraldic

I made a hat veil thingy. I swore up and down there was no way in hell this thing was going to stay on anyone’s head. The straw form just slid off my head. However… When you put the whole thing together, gravity keeps it on the head. It was like a light bulb went off over my head and words were uttered. “Holy crow, the English actually knew what they were doing in the late 15th century.”

veil

Linen, with linen applique sewn down via detached buttonhole, with metal thread.
Applique

Hat

 
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Posted by on May 14, 2013 in Embroidery, Heraldic, Pelican, Sewing

 

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The current stack: Spring/Summer 2012

Every once in a while I like to map out what’s on the project stack and what items will most likely be blogged in the next foreseeable future. More updates on these projects will be posted as I get them completed.

Costuming
Saxon Harry Potter dress- Currently I am working on a Cranach styled, upper class, Saxon dress in red and gray wool. It needs some serious adjustments in the bodice. But the fabric is working well, even in the heat. I have completed a tallerbaret (platter hat), in the same gray/red wool. It is large and ridiculous and completely awesome. Though I will need to add more feathers. I will post pictures shortly.

Queen’s favors– Fabric has been ordered for the non-rigid cloaks which will bear the Sparky (tyger of the east) and Avelina’s favor. I will be making these in lue of the traditional favor.

Champion’s Cassocks– I will be working on some new cassocks for the current King’s and Queen’s champion of Fence. They design will be identical with the exception of the sleeve.  The King’s champion will be gold, Queen’s silver.  Since the champions are all different sizes/body shapes a generic cassock doesn’t really work well.  We are exploring options for reuse/creating legacy.

Pennsic clothing- More clothes will need to be created for Pennsic.  I purged my wardrobe when we had a couple of EK fundraisers. I need to replenish the closet.  I will be journaling the creation of a new striped armor, so you will be able to see soup to nuts armoring. Also the flaming sheep/salamander sideless cote will be sewn for Pennsic.

Royal armor- On deck is new armor for HRM Kenric and HRH Edward. Look for designs coming soon.

Kountess of Kaos- I am working on a not so seekrit, seekret saddle blanket for Countess Kiena.  She liked the way the one for Duchess Katherine came out,  I am working on one for her.

Random bits- And as always, there are random bits of armoring projects on the board. Also a few sooper, seekrit surprises, which will get published after they have been given out.

Sugar
New EK Confectioners Guild is up and running.  We have 26 interested people and it is shaping up to be a good group.  It will be nice to see new research and exploration being done with period confections.

Research- I will be going back to do more sugar paste research.  Master Mord had some interesting questions with regard to my research paper about the type of people who would be purchasing paste sculptures.  He also wanted to know more about the differences in scale from the “big city” to the “country manors” to the “do it yourself”.  It is an interesting angle and one I’d like to devote some time to exploring.

Anglo-Saxon-I had spoken to Queen Avelinna a while back and offered to make a subtlety for the Pennsic State Dinner. I was thinking of doing an Anglo-Saxon helm and bits of jewelry based upon the Staffordshire Hoard, done in sugar paste. The helm would be a gift for our King and Queen (probably sculptural and not edible). The jewelry would be gifts that
they could give out to the visiting dignitaries (completely edible).

Ship- Research into period English Galleons continues.  Sugar ship for A&S will be ready for pre-construction shortly after the arrival of the giant roll of wire mesh.

Embroidery
Coif- My next long term embroidery project is an English coif. It is currently inked and stretched. It is based upon a 16th century stomacher.  I am working with silk perlee on a linen ground and will be doing it in polychrome.

Classes
I will be teaching the following classes, or at least this is the current plan.
SRWC- Knife Skills: Take big things, make smaller things, keep all your fingers

Bhakail commons- Sugar Paste Play Day: No rules, no judges, no documentation. I’ll bring the sugar and tools, you bring the creativity.

Pennsic-
Sat, Aug 4 9:00 AM AS 12 Period Sugar Paste
Sat, Aug 4 10:00 AM AS 12 Sugar Paste workshop

EKU- Boiled sugar and Manus Christi- (possible depending on resources), Long and short embroidery

GGG- Sugar Paste Play Day: No rules, no judges, no documentation. I’ll bring the sugar and tools, you bring the creativity.

Artisan’s Challenge- Sugar Challenge: I’ll bring the sugar and tools, you bring the creativity. Best display of the day will receive a starter sugar paste kit.

KWCS/KWAR- Rapier hoods- over, under, attached head protection, List legal armor- how to make persona appropriate clothing to wear on the list.

 
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Posted by on May 29, 2012 in Uncategorized

 

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Pelican- Mistress Alys Mackyntoich: Cloak

This was a super secret project for Mistress Alys Mackyntoich. She was elevated in 1999, so it wasn’t a secret that she was going to be a peer. We had talked about doing a new cloak as regalia off and on for a while. But something always took priority. So Engracia and I hatched a plan. I would to the pelican and the cloak, she would do Alys’ other badges and we would find a metal worker to create the clasps. The clasps were created by Lady Xandra Rozina Xiberras Galea and are matched Tygers of the East.

Stitches: Long and short, split, chain.
Materials: Gold torsade #3, gilt pearl purl, silk pearl floss, linen ground.
Inspiration: Pelican panel #3, Aberdeen Beastiary ~13th century.
http://www.abdn.ac.uk/bestiary/comment/35rbirdf.hti

The cloak is styled after a short cope and is made out of 19th century cotton velvet. I had some legacy fabric on hand and its been waiting for a project such as this. It is pieced in 6 pieces as the fabric I had was very long, but only 20 inches wide. The panels are attempting to mimic the diamond pattern from the beastiary. They were held to the fabric via lightweight fusible web and then appliqued down. Gold and silver gilt is being applied around the applique. It will be lined in linen.

There will be more posted about the cloak as it continues to be built.

 
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Posted by on January 27, 2012 in Embroidery, Pelican

 

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Techniques- Stained Glass

I’ve gotten a couple requests for a How to on the stained glass look for appliques. These instructions are for machine sewing.

I am a fan of light fuseable web (that’s the real secret). Heat’n Bond Light Weight Iron-On Fusible web (It’s in the purple package) is the brand I use. If you are doing a machine sewing, the lead lines are created with the widest machine zigzag it can handle. Mine is a size 6 or just about 1/3″ wide. The stitch distance is .3″ or as close to 0 as you can get without being 0. And you want to stock up on a lot of black thread. Your machine will eat it like there is no tomorrow. For the smaller detailed lines, I made them 1.5 width. This ensures that it will look much narrower like a painted line rather than a lead line.

I work almost exclusively in linen. I should probably own stock in it.

What you want to do is create an image the exact size that you want the end applique to be. You want to then print it out reversed. Make a couple of copies. If you are doing any layering, keep in mind the lighter color linen will need to be doubled or you will get bleed through. You will want to cut out your images based upon how you want to lay your pieces out. Trace the pieces onto the fuseable web paper. Do not remove the paper until you have cut everything out and you are ready to go. For the stained glass look, you will want to have a ground, that is bigger than the actual piece. You will cut this out later.

https://alysten.wordpress.com/2011/10/03/pelican-cloak-project-completed/ shows the various steps.

Step 1: The pieces are a jigsaw puzzle. I have not ironed everything down, until I am happy with the placement.
Step 2: Iron down the pieces and ink in the details. Keep in mind everything you ink, you need to stitch or paint (with fabric paint)
Step 3: The big lines go down first. This holds the piece in place while you do the little stitching.
Step 4: The bird was done. The outer ring was pieced in the same method as steps 1-3.

When you go to attach it to a cloak, you will apply another layer of fuseable web, bigger than the applique, smaller than the ground. I recommend doing this from the “wrong side”. Don’t try to go through all the applique. It wont melt completely. Do this in small stages, depending on how big your piece is. Cut the art out of the ground and attach it to the cloak. As a final step, I applied the lead lines around the outer ring and went back over some of the other lead lines in the bird. It helps really secure it down. Otherwise you can get weird puckering.

That’s it. Let me know if there are any questions.

 
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Posted by on October 5, 2011 in Sewing, Technique

 

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Pelican cloak- project completed

This is the cloak for Bronwyn, elevated to the OP yesterday.  The inspiration was a photograph of a stained glass church window.  I was 1/2 of the creative team for this cloak.  I built the applique and the physical cloak.  All the beading on the birds were completed by Lady Caitrina Gordon- called Katya.

Project details:

  • Purple cotton velvet- cartridge pleated caplet.
  • Linen applique, in the form of stained glass.

Inspiration:

Step 1: Applique Pieces

Stage 2:Inked

Stage 3: Lead Lines

Stage 4: Outer Ring

Stage 5: Completed cloak

With the beading:

Photo courtesy of Cateline la Broderesse

 
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Posted by on October 3, 2011 in Pelican, Regalia, Sewing

 

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KQAS 2011 Update: Pelican Embroidery

The Pelican has been completed.  I have the bottom border with the rest of the heraldry appliqued. I will be working on finishing the rest of the cloak this coming week *.

Project details:

  • Pelican: DMC linen floss, satin/split stitch
  • Blood and beaks:DMC cotton floss, satin/split stitch
  • Nest: DMC multi-dyed cotton pearl, couched stitch
  • Outline: DMC gold floss, stem stitch
  • Laurel leaves are machine appliqued linen.
  • Overall cloak is a light weight wool, lined in linen.

*Only the embroidery part of this project is being entered. However it will probably show better if the whole cloak is completed.

 
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Posted by on April 4, 2011 in Embroidery, Pelican, Regalia

 

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