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Category Archives: Court Wear

Costuming: Late Period German

I am setting out to make this dress:

It will be a work in progress. I have the kirtle completed. I have most of the saia put together.  I have all the trim ordered. I have a friend willing to do all the beading (I am not so much on the beading process).I already have a hoop and a beaded cap.

The shift is from a different project. It has ruffles and blackworked cuffs. Tonight I will be working on the sleeves and completing the kirtle (heming) and the base saia.

After this weekend, I will be puffing out the sleeves and adding all the trim/beading bits.  Then I will need to work on the beaded flat cap.  The goal is to get it completed by Yule.

Here are some pictures of the gown in progress.  They are a little grainy. I will try to get some better ones soon.

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Posted by on November 9, 2011 in 16th Century, Court Wear, German

 

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Elizabethan Court Gown- Mostly Finished

The gown is coronation ready, but far from complete.  I want to re-work the collar, finish the sleeves, get started on the correct fore-part, and  adjust the shoulders. And then there is trim…. lots of trim.  But in its current form, it was ready for coronation.  I am very happy with the new hoop skirt.  It was made smaller and more functional, but it still retains the correct Elizabethan lines.

 
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Posted by on May 26, 2009 in Court Wear

 

Elizabethan Court Gown- cartridge pleating

Ok… so cartridge pleating is the fine art of taking 5 yards of fabric, triple pleating it to the size of 35 inches and attaching it to a waistband 90 degrees horizontally.

Lessons learned (or now I remember why I haven’t done this in 8 years):

  1. 5 yards of cotton velvet is [bleep]ing heavy.
  2. Heavy pleated velvet does not want to attach to a waistband at 90 degree horizontally.
  3. When the needle draws blood the project has taken the requisite sacrifice, and turns out well (think this skirt took at least a pint).
  4. I am not sure what this should be, but probably along the lines of what the ‘hell was I thinking’ and ‘obviously I didn’t learn the first time’.

In spite of the bitching…. the overskirt looks amazing, and feels like silk and yummy goodness.

 
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Posted by on May 26, 2009 in Court Wear

 

Elizabethan Court Gown- Bodice and sleeves

The second sleeve is done and the bodice is more complete. I need to add additional trim to “disguise” the machine sewing of the silk.  And more documentation is needed for the pattern of the beading. So say the pelicans and the laurels.

 
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Posted by on May 26, 2009 in Court Wear

 

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Elizabethan Gown- Cawl

The Elizabethan cawl or caul was a small cap, often pinned over a bun, and worn with other headwear including tall hats. Cauls were mainly made of fabric, and were often decorated with blackwork, ribbon, embroidery, couching, pearls, gems and spangles. Applicable decorations are dictated by Sumptuary Law.

C1 C2

 
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Posted by on May 26, 2009 in Court Wear

 

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