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Category Archives: German

Snow White completed

24 hours and we went from fabric to finished. Dress was constructed of silk, lined with linen. Special thanks to everyone who worked on this with me Amy (mid), Holly (mid), Eleanor (Calontir), and Patresha (mid). This is our interpretation of what Snow White would have actually worn.

Kleid (dress)
Gollar (dickie)
Goldhaube (hat)
Belt
Hose
Stock (underdress/skirt)
Hemd
Churz (apron)
Tallerbaret

We started with silk from my business trip to Thailand. We had the option of doing wool, but thought the silk would be richer in color/sheen. We ended up using gold, blue, crimson and white. We had the option to go with brighter, crayola color pallet, but chose jewel tones.
silk

Collar and protege belt. The crescent is the EK order for service, the bear is my protege mark.
collar

The goldhaube, 6 sheep “pearls” for CB and “royal arson” for a motto.
hat

Sleeve construction
poofs

Here is the completed top
top

Getting ready
ready

24 hours later, we had a dress
finished

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Snow White: Design 1

We have a initial design for the Snow White dress.  This dress maintains the base overall color scheme of the Disney movie, but keeps the design of the dress in line with mid 1500 Saxony. The red/blue/white slashing are poofs, but those tend to be more difficult to do 3d in a 2d program. The fleurs are a nod to my heraldry, drawn in Lower German/Florentine fashion.

SnowWhite

Bodice/collar: Christiana Eulenau, Cranach, 1534 Germany
Saxon apron: Portrait of a Young Woman Holding Grapes and Apples, Cranach, 1528
Skirt: Duchess Katharina von Mecklenburg, Cranach
Sleeves: Sybille von Cleve. Cranach

 
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Posted by on February 28, 2014 in 16th Century, German

 

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What would Snow White “actually” have worn?

On April 11-12 we will be invading the Midrealm’s Golden Seamstress event.Currently we are an inter-kingdom squad of Mid, East and Calontir. I have been obsessed with creating a period appropriate Snow White since I last went to Disney.

The goal is not to create a Disney dress in period, but to create a period dress in Disney colors. Or fix the hot mess that is Snow White.

The trick for this project is to reverse engineer the Disney version of Snow White, into period appropriate SCA clothing. If you look at Disney’s version, it is a hot mess of styles from mostly around Germany in the 16th century. The sleeves mid century, skirt and later 16th. But the thing that is odd is the two colors between bodice and skirt. Disney’s movie version is set somewhere in Bavaria, but she’s dressed in a dress that you would expect to see in Saxony.

Going back to the origins of the faerie tale as written by the Grimms, the story was told to them by 2 women in Kassel. And by the time of retelling of the folk story, it was already “old”. Kassel is located in the area we know now as Hesse and bordered Saxony.

Add in another wrinkle of Margaretha of Waldeck. There are scholars that believe there is a direct connection to Margaretha of Waldeck and the Snow White story. The time period would be correct, as she died in the mid 1500s. The geographical area would be correct. Waldeck was a sovereign principality in the German Empire and is comprised of territories in present-day Hesse and Lower Saxony. There is a scholastic presumption she was killed by poison, long illness that started when she was at court, long drawn out death in 1554. The earliest Grimm tale of Snow White, has her hair being blonde. There are accounts of the family owning copper mine, worked by small deformed children called dwarfs.

I’ve got books on the way for the historical accounts of the House o Waldeck. Hopefully the get here in time and that translating the German doesnt prove to be a really large rabbit hole of time.

So I have, time, location, motive and a bunch of circumstantial coincidences. 1550s, Saxony here we come. The good news, is I am really familiar with this time/location combo and I have a bunch of manuscripts to paw through.

I think we have a winner for portrait inspiration. Christiana Eulenau by Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1534 That collar line is nearly spot on. Now we just need to figure out how to make the standing collars for the bodice AND the hemd. The big guns suggest that the hemd is actually a gollar, which has decreased the level of difficulty exponentially. A gollar can be a little caplet, that is circular in nature and worn over the top of a dress. Or it can be like a square partlet. Modernly, we would call this a dicky.

Christiana Eulenau by Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1534 Germany

 
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Posted by on February 17, 2014 in 16th Century, German, Sewing

 

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Heraldic gown- German early 16th century: 3 yards of Heraldry

This is what 3 yards of heraldry looks like from the 2nd floor balcony. The center line represents the back of the dress and the change in armory. The ermines are appliques also. The dress has been completely appliqued. The dress has been built. All that is needed are the final touches of trim added. This is the part that will take the longest.

Heraldry

Design Phase

The dress has been completed and you can see it here: This is Yehuda getting his Silver Crescent (OHM for service in the East). Photo taken by Hugh Tauerner.

What’s all the heraldry mean:
Right side panel- Who am I?
Alesone’s arms- Quarterly gules and sable, on a bend sinister argent three fleurs-de-lys gules. Those are Florentine fleurs, they look a bit like lobsters with jazz hands (yeah, there’s a story behind those).

Left side panel- My associations (aka-who I’ve been “licked by”)
Front 1/2
Aly Macintosh’s badge- (Fieldless) A bear rampant gules charged with an ermine spot argent. This was put on a yellow feild to show that I am a protege.

Back 1/2 Top-
Ian Raven’s cadet mark- My position is the 6th child of Ian Raven, which is represented by the fleur-de-lys.My cadet scarf is marked by Ian’s ermine spot and raven, with the fleur on top.

Back 1/2 Bottom-
Donovan Shinnock’s badge-  (Fieldless) A fox’s mask gules charged with a mascle argent.This was put on a green field as that is one of his primary device colors.When my Don moved out of kingdom, I entered into the age old system of “fostering”.

 
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Posted by on October 11, 2013 in 16th Century, German, Heraldic, Uncategorized

 

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Heraldic gown- German early 16th century: Update

Progress has been made on getting the appliques pieced. I have completed the first 1/2, and pieced & ironed down the second side. I’ve opted for doing 100% applique for the ermine dots rather than purchasing fabric. This is a mostly formal dress, the appliques will look nicer. The time line for completion has moved from River Wars to Coronation. As of today, I have not decided if this will double as armor.

Side1

Side 2

 
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Posted by on September 14, 2013 in 16th Century, German, Heraldic

 

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Heraldic gown- German early 16th century: Design Phase

German heraldry in really neat format. The Triumphal Procession (in German, Triumphzug), 16th-century woodcut print, commissioned by the Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian I.  http://bdh.bne.es/bnesearch/detalle/2693689 Part 1 has the horses and heraldic banners. Click the view work link.Look at the dresses on the banners.
 
Here is one example. This is the flag that the rider is carrying.
Sample heraldic dress

I have been working on a design that will combine my arms on one side, with “something else.”  Originally I thought I would use my device and my badge on the other.

Herald 2
While I love my badge to bits, I think I’ve settled on the badges of folks that I have an affiliation/formal relationship with in the SCA. The red/black right side is my arms. The left yellow/bear is my Pelican’s badge, ermine/raven (specifically the raven with fleur de lis from my cadet scarf) is my Don’s, green/fox is my foster Don’s.  The ermine’s continue up to form the left side bodice as that is one of the primary prints of my fencing household. It changes the design a bit and makes it a bit more striking.Currently the design looks like this:
Heraldry Dress
 
I have not yet decided if this will be rapier armor as well. If it is, I will move the neckline up several inches and add a drop tested partlet (to be worn on the list). This dress has a target completion date of River Wars, in mid Sept. My heraldry has already been completed.
 
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Posted by on August 5, 2013 in 16th Century, German, Sewing

 

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Swabian #4- finished

The Swabian for Bhakail’s investiture has been completed.

I had help with the beading of the front and back bodice. Thanks Violet Coleson and Ysmay de Linn. I applied the appliques and beads for the sleeve. There is still the fill beading and join appliques left to do. But it was done for the event.

Full dress:
Completed Dress

Sleeve closeup:
Sleeve Closeup

Photography by Jennifer Guyton

 
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Posted by on July 3, 2013 in Baronial, Embroidery, German, Heraldic, Regalia

 

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