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Monthly Archives: June 2009

Pennsic- Life in the SCA after Gastric Bypass outline

Here is the outline for my third Pennsic class: Life in the SCA after Gastric Bypass. Or as I like to call it: big eyes… little bellies. This class explores challenges faced after bariatric surgery, including care and feeding of fighters, how to stay hydrated and feast dietary considerations.

Bypass outline

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Posted by on June 25, 2009 in Classes, Pennsic

 

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Waffenrok- Update

I have a waffenrok 90% complete. I need to do all the trim work and finish the shirt and pants, but the waffenrok looks, like well… a waffenrok.

Now boys and girls a lesson about dyes… I bought fabric from the same vendor, same name, same weight, should have been the same color fabric right?  Nope.  They are just a hair shade off. Different dye lots.  Doh!

Good news… this is perfectly period.  Not so good news… this grates on my perfectionist nerves.  Though the change is subtle and you do have to be looking for it, there was a great deal of cursing last night.

 
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Posted by on June 25, 2009 in 16th Century, Fencing Armor, German, Sewing

 

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16th Century- English: The Pickle Dress

At Roses I had the pleasure of spending time with folks I respect and admire a lot. I also spent a bit of time admiring their properly constructed English garb. It seems that while you can find Elizabethan court garments fairly easily, finding good quality every day wear is not as simple to find. Either the corsets are too tight and create the wrong lines or the style is simply not right.

I’ve been sewing better and better garments… for everyone else. My new armor is nice and super comfy to wear, but I cannot wear that for 8 days at Pennsic. I realized that I should spend some of my sewing time on me and upgrade my kit. I have good garb, but mostly Tudor lines, which is just slightly out of the time period of my persona. It is also wool. Which while great winter, is going to be too hot for Pennsic. My Pennsic garb from last year was all sewn during a “I’m still loosing weight too fast so i have to sew everything 2 weeks before I go” marathon. I have a little more time to create things this time around. Last years clothes will be recycled into other garments for this year- it’s good linen and I don’t want to just throw it away. And it is perfectly period to recycle your garments into other garments.

I’ve been trying to come up with the correct descriptor for the color of the linen. But it is probably closest to “kosher pickle” green, though Matt calls it “pea soup” green. It is really a lot of green, but the white trim cuts up the visual lines nicely and offers an eye break to the pickle color. The sleeves are detachable with diagonal stripes. The sleeve caps square tabs (like dental molding).

Pickle dress:
Bodice
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Inspiration piece (I probably will not do the ruff):
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Posted by on June 25, 2009 in 16th Century, English, Sewing

 

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Technique- Waffenrok front: Faux slashed panel

I have changed how I’m doing the slashes in the front of the waffenrok. I wanted a larger splash of white in each slash and it needed to have some sort of front closing mechanism. I went back to what I know, faux slashes. Though this required a different set of calculations and patterning.

1. Calculate all seem allowances. In this case 2 additional inches of seam allowance.
2. Add additional measurements to waffenrok pattern.
3. Cut out front waffenrok.
4. Mark out all cut lines and cut.
Cut Lines
5. Create faux slash panels.

panel
6. Create pocket closures.

stripes
7. Sew rest of waffenrok pieces to front panel.

8. Hand stitch corner closure.

collar
9. Add decorative seam cover. This adds an additional layer of protection to the joins of all the seams and a decorative element to the neck line.

side1

This creates the illusion of slashes with the safety of being completely closed. Perfectly list legal fencing armor

 
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Posted by on June 17, 2009 in Fencing Armor, Sewing, Technique

 

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Waffenrok- Update

I have a student. She is learning sewing stuff from me occasionally cooking stuff. This weekend I had her help me with the King’s waffenrok. She ironed all of the clean linen, and cut out the skirt and top from the patterns we created yesterday. It will allow me to get the project completed faster than if I had done all the work myself. Lissa did a lot of grunt work yesterday, but everything she did needed presision and accuracy, and was important stuff to learn. She also learned the “easier” way to square fabric.  This is a good and challenging project for her to work on.

After the day’s lessons, I started the waffenrok front panel. I think I have a good way to do the slashes in the front. Though my heart bled just a little bit when I put 5 large slashes in my perfectly good, perfectly structurely sound linen. I will post the technique for the enclosed slash once I can fully articulate what I’m doing. Needless to say, the slash is completely closed and a blade will not get through any fabric. It is also a double layer of white which will eventually be lined. This is for drop test passability.

waffenrok2 waffenrok

 
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Posted by on June 15, 2009 in 16th Century, Fencing Armor, German, Sewing

 

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Practice Waffenrok- sleeve 1

I love the way the faux puff and slash look. I hate how long it take to do. I have the stripe part of the construction down now. Once the stripes are cut, sewing them together takes no time at all. The time comes in creating the puffs. It is taking about 3-4 hours per sleeve. Normally, I can do a shirt in that time. The colors cause a little bit of eye strain, so I am bouncing between projects, and not really completing any one thing. I have about 4 projects in various states of completeness.

I like the addition of the purple binding to the puffs. It breaks up the orange and actually makes it tolerable.

 
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Posted by on June 12, 2009 in 16th Century, Fencing Armor, German, Sewing

 

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Practice Waffenrok- update

I have completed the skirt. I ended up pleating, un-pleating, re-pleating, unpleating, re-pleating, sewing, ripping out seam, un-pleating and finally standard gather pleating. 108 inches to 36 inches. I am currently working on the top puff and slash. It is going to take quite a few stripes to make the top of the waffenrok. Good thing I have shown Telscope_merc how to cut out the fabric strips. I can measure them out and then have him cut them.

My eyes are taking a break from the orange and purple combination. These colors are in the right saturation to play well with each other, but the dominate color is orange (not quite safety cone orange). It can be a little hard on the eyes when working with it for long periods of time. “German” military clothing tended towards the bright and outlandish, so I am staying perfectly period (think Swiss guard). You are not going to miss this outfit on the rapier list.

stripes puff

I am glad that I have other projects to work on when I need a visual break. I have just cut out the shirt for the waffenrok. I need to see how it will hold up as the collar is different than what I normally make for rapier armor. I am hoping it covers enough on the neck. I don’t want to rely on the goret and hood for the sole means of neck coverage. I might work on this tonight. Shirts are easy… the collar is going to be a pain.

 
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Posted by on June 11, 2009 in 16th Century, Fencing Armor, German, Sewing

 

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