I was asked to help with creating some regalia for a good friend’s elevation to the Order of the Pelican. I was responsible for a new dress and a new personal banner.
Marion’s persona is 14th century English.
“Over the chemise, women wore a loose or fitted gown called a cotte or kirtle, usually ankle or floor-length, and with trains for formal occasions. Fitted kirtles had full skirts made by adding triangular gores to widen the hem without adding bulk at the waist. Kirtles had long sleeves.”
Marion approached me prior to Spring Crown for help in creating a 14th century dress. 2 weeks prior her husband approached me for help in creating a 14th century dress for her elevation to Pelican. I had never sewn for this century before and was unaware of how to make this type of dress. Unbeknown to Marion, when she asked for help, she was handing me a “practice” dress. I was able to measure her, do a duct tape double, and create the Crown Tourney dress all in preparation for her elevation. AND… she helped in the whole process. We even created a custom pattern to be used later.
Ironically enough (ok not really… I planned it that way) the sideless over kirtle we made has the same color cherry shot through at regular intervals. She will be able to use the over kirtle for both dresses.
After crown, we had to modify the pattern to create more bust support. The result has become her elevation dress. The dress was created in 5.3 oz cherry linen. It is ankle length with a modest train and two additional triangle gores. It is a formal dress, without too much additional fabric.
The cord was created by my student and her cadet Lady Elysabeth Underhill. It was hand combed, spun, dyed (with assistance from another of her teachers Lady Iseault), and corded.
Lissa’s diary entry.
The lacing holes are much improved over the first dress as I had a lot of practice with the blanket stitch from the banner project. Finished dress: