This project started out trying to replicate the puff and slash sleeves of the Landsknecht Kampfrau, as part of an EK legal fencing uniform. The problem of the slash would be the potential entanglement of a blade to the sleeves. While this is not a violation of the rules, it could potentially turn into one if the sleeves ripped and exposed skin. The sleeves were designed to give the illusion of puff and slash, while having all seams stitched closed. The uniform is designed in linen, this method also prevents fraying of the fabric.
Step 1: Paneling the fabric
Alternating strips of pink and yellow fabric were paneled together. The pink strips were cut to 2 inches in width, for a finished width of 1.5 inches. The yellow strips were cut to 1.5 inches in width, for a finished width of 1 inch.
Step 2: Creating the “slash”
The yellow fabric was sewn closed in a single stitch, creating the pockets or “slashes”. The pink strips were left un-sewn, creating ribbons of solid color. This was done across all yellow strips horizontally. Vertically, the next row of slashes was started 2 inches down from the closure stitch.
Step 3: Creating the “puff”
The shirt sleeve and the panel were joined at this time. A 1/2 inch band of white fabric was pinned across the shirt sleeve and the panel at the juncture of the gathers. The next row was moved up the shirt 1/2 inch, creating a puff in the panel, as the shirt sleeve was kept taut (achieved by pining the sleeve to the ironing board). This was repeated for 8 rows of puff.
Step 4: Sewing everything down
The white band of fabric was sewn to sleeve and panel using a 1/16 seam margin. At the 8th junction, a panel of pink fabric was added to complete the sleeve. Originally, this garment called for puff and slash all the way down to the cuff. However, since the last 4-5 inches will be encased in leather gloves, a solid band was added, and cuffed in white.
Step 5: Attaching the sleeve to the shirt
This attached like any other shirt sleeve.
Step 6: Adding the ties
The ties were added to the sleeve/shirt junction. This gives the sleeve the illusion of being tied on, while being completely attached. They can also be replaced when they get ratty from being poked at.
All the modifications made to the sleeve have been done with safety and comfort in mind. A big thank you to everyone who helped me work out the solution to this problem.