Alysten's Blog

Archive for the ‘Court Wear’ Category

Costuming: Late Period German

Posted by: Alysten on: November 9, 2011

I am setting out to make this dress: It will be a work in progress. I have the kirtle completed. I have most of the saia put together.  I have all the trim ordered. I have a friend willing to do all the beading (I am not so much on the beading process).I already have [...]

Elizabethan Court Gown- Mostly Finished

Posted by: Alysten on: May 26, 2009

The gown is coronation ready, but far from complete.  I want to re-work the collar, finish the sleeves, get started on the correct fore-part, and  adjust the shoulders. And then there is trim…. lots of trim.  But in its current form, it was ready for coronation.  I am very happy with the new hoop skirt.  It [...]

Elizabethan Court Gown- cartridge pleating

Posted by: Alysten on: May 26, 2009

Ok… so cartridge pleating is the fine art of taking 5 yards of fabric, triple pleating it to the size of 35 inches and attaching it to a waistband 90 degrees horizontally. Lessons learned (or now I remember why I haven’t done this in 8 years): 5 yards of cotton velvet is [bleep]ing heavy. Heavy [...]

Elizabethan Court Gown- Bodice and sleeves

Posted by: Alysten on: May 26, 2009

The second sleeve is done and the bodice is more complete. I need to add additional trim to “disguise” the machine sewing of the silk.  And more documentation is needed for the pattern of the beading. So say the pelicans and the laurels.

Elizabethan Gown- Cawl

Posted by: Alysten on: May 26, 2009

The Elizabethan cawl or caul was a small cap, often pinned over a bun, and worn with other headwear including tall hats. Cauls were mainly made of fabric, and were often decorated with blackwork, ribbon, embroidery, couching, pearls, gems and spangles. Applicable decorations are dictated by Sumptuary Law.



  • opusanglicanum: there is a c15th version, and the latest example (the one I used) was from richard dolby cook's dictionary of 1832, quoted in elizabeht ayrtons englis
  • Alysten: I've done several galentines that require that level of boning. But I haven't done one of those types of subtleties yet. I am hoping to attempt one w
  • opusanglicanum: havae you tried the seventeenth century thing where you bone out a whole chicken (that bits tricky as you have to bone it complete from the inside, in

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